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Honoring First Nation People at Wakulla Springs

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During one of many visits to the Tallahassee area, we spent several days researching at the “Florida” Library and Archives and the Meeks-Eaton Archives Research Center and Museum at the “Florida” Agricultural and Mechanical University. We were looking for information regarding Tony Taylor, an “African American” who was the first mayor of the town of Maitland, located in Central “Florida”. We found some records indicating that he was elected mayor in 1885 and other sources list him as councilman (1885-1886); even “Maitland’s” historical records do not reflect this information. If you can shed any light on this subject, we would love to hear about it.

We decided to continue on our Journeys of Appreciation by visiting Wakulla Springs, honoring Indigenous legacy in the north central Territory. From previous research, we learned that many Indigenous groups tended to establish villages and mound sites near waterways (including springs) due to the abundance of natural resources. And many archaeological surveys are revealing thousands of years of human habitation in Wakulla Springs, along the river and surrounding areas.

Wakulla Springs is located approximately 14 miles south of Tallahassee (“Florida’s” capital) and 14 miles north of the Gulf of Mexico; and is a primary contributor to the vast natural beauty and resources found in Wakulla “County.” By the way, some say that “Wakulla” means ‘spring of water’ or ‘mysterious water,’ and may stem from an Indigenous “Timucuan” word that likely referred to the large spring that creates the Wakulla River, which flows southwest from the spring basin and runs about 9 miles to meet the “St. Marks” River and in 3 miles becomes Apalachee Bay then outlets into the Gulf of Mexico.

In 1966, the Wakulla Spring and River were designated as “National Natural Landmarks”, featuring the main spring, an underwater cave system, sinkholes, and river corridor that yields abundant wildlife habitats and ancient forests. Then in 1993, a portion of the park was placed on the “National Register of Historic Places” as an “Archaeological and Historic District”. We saw an onsite historical marker that begins, “This location is significant as it represents relationships between human culture and natural resources” and then declares there are 55 recorded archaeological sites on the property, including “Paleo-Indian” sites, campsites, village areas, and a mound/village complex.

This as a must-see site for us to commemorate the legacy of First Nation People on the American Continent.

Traveling along the road to Wakulla Springs

We were enticed by these peaceful words in a brochure: The “park” is a 6,000-acre wildlife sanctuary” and “The three-mile river tour is a 45-minute cruise on the river to see alligators, native birds, turtles, and other wildlife up close.” Enough said…we are excited about this place! Not that the other amenities (like lodging, horse riding, bicycling, swimming/diving, and family gathering/playground areas) are any less attractive—as proven by 200,000+ visitors who come here each year.

Traveling along the road, we enjoyed scenic views of dense forest canopies, showcasing a wide variety of trees and natural greenery. And we appreciate the generosity of references used to identify some of these hardwood species as white oak, red bay, southern magnolia, American beech, basswood, and sweetgum. This verdant combination looks so beautiful together and is a vivid prelude to our ultimate destination…an important naturally abundant and culturally rich heritage site.

Also, we found out that this wonderland is home to three “National Champion” trees and thirteen “Florida” Champion trees. The list includes: White Oak (149 ft); Swamp Chestnut Oak (140 ft); “Shumard” Oak (133 ft); Bluff Oak (129 ft); Laurel Oak (128 ft); Pignut Hickory and American Beech (126 ft); and Spruce Pine and Carolina Basswood (120 ft). We look forward to spotting some of these fine giants while exploring the area because we do love trees…all of them. Often along our journeys, we find that some trees evoke a simple energizing ‘touch me’ and still others may whisper “give me hug.” Whenever that feeling comes over us—we go ahead and appreciate the symbiotic relationship that we all share with trees. Always use good judgement and remember--safety first.

Just in case you are wondering what defines a “champion” tree, here is a brief explanation: the largest tree of each species is awarded the title. According to sources responsible for administering forestry programs, there were 89 “Florida” species on the 2008 register. And basically—trees are nominated, measured, and assigned points based on their height, girth, and crown spread. The tree with the highest score is designated the champion for that species; and should another tree come close in total points, a co-champion title is assigned. Surprisingly, any of us can nominate a tree that we feel is as grand as the current champion!

At the entrance gate, a discount coupon is offered that can be used for dining at the historic lodge. Since we planned to eat something later on—we might as well check out this place. We also asked about the best spot to get pictures of the spring and were told that the diving tower in the swimming area overlooks the spring basin and river, providing great viewing options. The two different boat tour options are charged separately; and if interested in riding the popular glass bottom boats, you might want to call ahead to ensure they are operating that day. We learned that on some days concerns about water clarity does affect the feasibility of using these type boats for “touring” along the river.

Arriving at the picturesque Wakulla Springs Lodge

From the moment we entered the “parking” area, the picturesque Wakulla Springs Lodge captured my attention with its Mediterranean architectural style, showcasing beige stucco exterior walls, many large arched windows, and orange canopy accents that complement the color of the roof. It was gorgeous…I could hardly wait to get inside and look around.

As defined in literature, the lodge is “a 1937 vision of quiet elegance, providing a retreat from the modern world.” Sounds like serenity to me…especially after an adventuresome day of research and vigorous “exploration”. I’m hoping we can sit and relax, enjoy a delicious plant-based meal, and even stay for awhile.

Our focus quickly shifted to the terrain surrounding the lodge where we observed a definite downward slant leading toward the river. This looks like a mound…was the first thought that crossed our minds when we observed the slope from different viewpoints, especially with an abundant water source being so near. The lodge was built atop a large mound.

As we recalled statements denoting numerous archaeological “sites” within the park, the words depicting this prominent land feature are absent. Quite frankly, we were astonished by the nondisclosure of such relevant information that Indigenous People inhabited the location where the lodge sits. As a matter of fact, our latter review of the “Florida Master Site File (FMSF)” shows the description of the lodge as a “Paleo-Indian” village. Alright—so they did not label it as a mound—instead…it was an entire village! Now that’s incredibly interesting.

And—we did notice surveying equipment near the left side of the lodge and the road was blocked off—most likely indicating an ongoing research project to corroborate Aboriginal presence at this location.

Being at peace with the flow of enlightenment and knowing that our insights were correct, we felt blissful about this amazing journey thus far.

In addition, later research revealed that this two-story building is shaped like the Greek pi sign, and the symbol is used on some directional maps and is obvious in aerial views of the lodge. It would be interesting to know why this shape was chosen by Edward Ball, who had the lodge built.

Continuing forward, we decided to bypass going inside the lodge for now and headed down to the spring.

Taking the boat “tour”

We were excited about taking the boat “tour” around the spring basin and historic river. Imagine being taken back to the earlier Territory—from a waterway perspective—experiencing many new sights and sounds (probably awakening all your senses) while relaxing and delighting in natural grace and bounty. We eagerly waited to become engulfed by noteworthy scenes along this river adventure.

Aboard the boat, the “tour” guide entertained us with brief background stories about the spring, river and underwater caves, answering questions and prompting group participation. We could clearly see lots of striped mullets and long-nosed gar fish busily swimming in water filled with aquatic plants, like eelgrass (tape grass), slowly dancing with the current. It is said that eelgrass habitats are important for overall health of coastal ecosystems. We were surprised to learn that some of their valuable functions are similar to those of mangroves—they limit algae growth, improve water quality, and provide food and shelter for fish and wildlife.

Cruising along, the boat slowed down for us to watch and respect wood ducks making their way across the river; and resting close to shore was a common moorhen with the bright red shield clearly visible on its forehead. And manatees are known to frolic in the spring’s warmer waters and abundant vegetation—especially loving the eelgrass. Reportedly, Wakulla Springs is the farthest north these graceful mammals will venture during the winter season. Perhaps we can see them on our next journey to this area.

We missed getting a glimpse of limpkins, which are described as large brown wading birds with white speckles on their sides and backs. Limpkins gained notoriety for their loud screaming calls that intrigued visitors and added drama to early jungle movies. They are said to be skillful apple snail eaters by using their long sturdy bills to quickly find and eat them without cracking the outer shells. However, researchers discovered that the main food source for limpkins, apple snails, had dramatically declined due in part to increased nitrate levels in the water which prompts rapid growth of hydrilla (an invasive non-native aquatic plant). As a result, most limpkins left the area to seek better feeding opportunities. Reportedly, appropriate measures were implemented to improve the habitat for apple snails and hopefully these lovely birds will soon return. If you have ever seen and heard a limpkin, you know why some local folks rallied on behalf of these uniquely beautiful birds…and we applaud them.

With eyes roaming and heads turning in different directions trying to get a quick glimpse in response to motions and noises heard in this lively environment, we were captivated by the following memorable sightings along the route:

• Turtles were seen huddled on old logs, some were identified as “Florida” soft shells and Suwannee cooters;

• Alligators of various sizes were sunning on the river banks, camouflaged amid tall grasses and vegetation, or enjoying swims in the cool water;

• Various birds were spotted soaring overhead, swooping down for food, and roosting on various moss-draped tree branches. Species such as the snowy egrets with black legs and golden slippers, the anhingas or snake birds sun-drying their outstretched wings, the herons striking long poses, and the ospreys loudly screeching for attention and;

• Some gorgeous towering bald cypress trees with ages determined to range from 400-600 years. Sources reported seeing an active eagle’s nest in one of these fine old trees (exact location is protected). And yes—I was curious and checked—the current Champion bald cypress thrives in “Hamilton County” and stands tall at 84 feet with a 557-inch circumference. This sounds like a large tree!

The Wakulla Spring

Everyone seemed to agree that sightseeing along the river corridor was fantastic. As we neared the spring basin, we were enthralled by its massive size. The Wakulla Spring is reported to be one of the world’s largest and deepest freshwater springs. It is also recognized by some as “Florida’s” seventh largest first-magnitude spring, reportedly discharging an average 260 million gallons of water per day. The spring also maintains a pleasurable 69-degree temperature year-round. Amazing!

We were able to observe the wondrous rippling activity around the large cave opening located 185 feet directly below the spring. Sources say the immediate area where the water flows out is almost four acres. As the boat approached the parameter, we noted the mostly clear underwater canvas featured many patches of white sand highlighted by assorted shades of green and brown aquatic vegetation. This perspective appears quite close to the surface even though we know it is much farther down.

According to environmental experts, springs are important windows into the health of our groundwater, supplying 90 percent of the water we drink. Some sources report that “Florida” has about 1,000 known springs and more than 30 are first-magnitude; this exceeds other regions in the nation for number, quantity and quality of water vented. First-magnitude springs are defined as those that discharge over 100 cubic feet per second or more than 64.5 million gallons of water per day.

Reference sources shared other fascinating details about springs, including the following:

1. Springs are karst features formed by the dissolution of limestone and Wakulla Springs is considered one of the most studied karst systems in the world. From previous research, we learned there is an abundance of springs in the Territory because it is underlain by a thick sequence of limestone and dolomite—rocks that are dissolved by slightly acidic rainwater that seeps into the ground.

2. The “Floridan” Aquifer is the primary source of the spring water in the area. Basically, rainwater replenishes the aquifers which in turn supply the springs with generally clear water flowing through permeable rocks. Notable discharge of tea-colored water may result when large channels within the aquifer allows water to flow quickly without being filtered through the limestone rock.

3. The highest recorded range of discharge from any inland “Florida” spring is 1,910 cubic feet per second, which was measured here at Wakulla in 1973 and is equal to over 14,000 gallons per second.

4. The spring is connected to one of the largest underwater cave systems ever mapped. Reportedly, an early diving project established a world record for underwater cave exploration—going about 3.5 miles past the entrance. Over the past 25 years, even more world records have been set as cave divers mapped over 32 miles, revealing a network of conduits that supply the water that discharges from the spring.

5. The spring and river have been consistently studied over the years, telling past heritage through exposed objects identified as fossil mammoths and mammals, including mastodon parts recovered from the spring vent; as well as many stone blades and bone tools said to be designed by “prehistoric” People. Divers reported some cave walls being embedded with fossilized marine debris. Ongoing diving projects continue to enhance geological and archaeological research.

6. As a matter of fact, in 2018, Wakulla Springs was designated as the newest “Florida” Geological Site because of its significance to geological history. Surveying efforts record that the rock layers exposed inside the cave reveal “a world of carbonate rocks, deposited over millions of years, that have been slowly dissolved by the power of water.” Incredible.

Several smaller springs that contribute to the Wakulla River are located near the main spring, including one called “Sally Ward” Spring, which is 0.7 miles NW of the main spring and has a run or stream that joins the Wakulla River downstream. Although we missed viewing this spring, research noted that the pool has a 120-foot diameter; has an extensive cave system that reportedly reaches depths of over 250 feet; and some sources think it connects with the Wakulla Spring cave system.

Of interest also is Cherokee Sink, a large sinkhole lake located in the southwest section and speculated to connect to the main spring cave system. It was formed by collapse of the limestone bedrock and is believed to be much deeper than the estimated 60-foot water depth. We are curious about the sink’s Indigenous name and what specific artifacts were noted on the “FMSF”. And, research of the nearby “Causseaux” cemetery is underway to determine its historicity. Reportedly, the area has many smaller sinkholes and lakes.

More about the Wakulla River

We focused on learning more about one of the few rivers in “Florida” that derive most of their flow from springs. Flowing south from the spring basin, the Wakulla River provides abundant habitat for a variety of wildlife and some areas appear the way they did many years ago. We agree—it is quite photographic.

Reportedly, the first three miles are protected as a wildlife sanctuary of the park. Researchers claim that access to the lower portion of this river and land area are restricted to afford protection of its diverse wildlife and to preserve integrity of their natural habitat. As a matter of contention, a fence was erected across the river about three miles below the spring, which prompted objections from nearby residents over access to the river. The fence remains.

Our research revealed there are 70 archaeological sites listed in the “Florida Master Site File” (“FMSF”) and several historians drafted timelines that appear to support similar findings, such as:

• A small Indigenous village called “Aute” was located along the Wakulla River near the spring; and early exploration records in the area indicate Europeans arrived at an Apalachee village named Aute;

• Many Creeks and Seminoles established settlements and thrived along the river. For example, the “FMSF” shows a habitation “site” called “Francis’ Town” probably named after its prestigious Creek Chief, Hillis Hadjo or Francis the Prophet, who arrived in the area from Alabama and lived at his Wakulla River settlement with daughter, Milly Francis. Also, we saw onsite signage declaring he was the first ‘resident’ at Wakulla Springs.

• Evidence of an “African American” homestead is shown in the “FMSF” and other sources clarify that they consistently lived in the area, earning money by rowing people up and down the river to see the spring. They appeared in early travel brochures as boatmen at the spring, and their churches held baptisms at the river and surrounding springs. We would love to know the location of this river homesite--so more research is necessary, then we can plan a follow-up journey to this significant spot.

More fascinating historical information surfaced during latter research efforts and we decided to share a few relevant points at the end of this article under Additional Commentary.

Returning to the Wakulla Lodge

Following the boat “tour”, we walked over to look around inside the lodge and perhaps enjoy a meal at the restaurant. Immediately upon entering, everything was just as I imagined…charming and very inviting. The huge lobby was filled with elegant furnishings and decorative accessories that momentarily whisks you away, as you reminisce and appreciate being in the presence of the past. Although it was challenging to just look and not touch, I thoroughly enjoyed myself. The high ceilings (probably 16 feet or more) that kept us busy admiring the exceptional painted artwork, particularly the Arabic style scroll work and Indigenous designs, were gorgeous.

Later we found yet another interesting reason to appreciate the majestic cypress tree. Researchers assert that much of the lodge was constructed using heart cypress (interior of the tree) which was obtained locally as ‘dead heads’ or fallen trees that remained immersed in water for 50 years or more, making them rot-resistant. Ultimately, these trees were recycled to continue their value providing sturdy wood for various building projects.

With so many eye-catching objects scattered about, we delighted at watching a few guests playing on the old-style game tables. Oh…I must mention the festive lights that decorated the spacious patio ballroom featuring panoramic views of the garden area, which overlooked the spring and river. We were enthralled with browsing until hunger pangs ushered us into the dining room where we enjoyed sharing a delicious plant-based meal consisting of a black bean burger, grilled asparagus, fried green tomatoes over mixed green salad, and French-fried potatoes. Adding even more nostalgia to the dining experience—we were happily grooving to Oldies tunes playing on the radio. Then, after sharing a slice of pie for dessert, Jamal surprised me with a last-minute decision to spend the night and leave first thing in the morning. Of course, I was thrilled.

We strolled down a hallway decorated with many pictures, including an interesting aerial view of the main spring. Then we walked upstairs and entered into the quaint guest room that reminded me of being at my grandparent’s house—cozy beds with old-fashioned bedding and curtains, antique furniture and charming decor, and you guessed it…no television or wi-fi. If relaxation was the goal, in our opinion, they achieved it. The window provided an incredible panoramic overhead view of the large tree and plant filled garden with benches creatively placed for peaceful enjoyment and reflection. We caught a glimpse of the spring and river as well.

After settling into the room, we decided to take the elevator (built in 1937) back down to the first floor. Later, we learned that some historians called it the first indoor mechanical hotel elevator in the world. What a fascinating operating and riding experience. Then we walked around an area beside the lodge and wound up at a trail entrance that led to a boardwalk. Afterwards, we learned this 2.5-mile hike looped from the lodge and offered viewing access to two small sinkholes. With sunlight fading, we walked part of the trail amid various tall trees, observed one of the sinkholes, and then headed back.  

We strolled around for a bit, spending time near the dock area trying to get another look at the spring and sparkling river. On the way back to the lodge, we noticed a sign entitled, “Walking with Mastodons at Wakulla Springs,” which offered speculation and information about discoveries found inside the underwater caves. We wondered about similar signage that could be titled, “Indigenous Footprints at Wakulla Springs” to signify and chronicle the legacy of First Nation People who occupied this location--as evidenced by the number of indigenous sites identified in the “FMSF”, which includes three or more mounds and cultural sites located in the undeveloped areas. Some folks like us would like to see these details displayed up front, along the garden path--not stashed away in volumes.

Pausing to relax on a bench in the lovely garden, we remained present in natural majesty while savoring the day’s worthwhile events. We returned to the room where we experienced an exquisite night’s rest-- waking up to a chorus of birds sweetly singing outside our window, feeling refreshed and invigorated, and looking forward to continuing on our Journeys of Appreciation.

Additional Commentary

We know that many Indigenous names of people, places and things have been assigned and we use those labels out of respect for those who accept them. That being said…some researchers claim that Indigenous People living in this area were known as the Apalachee, which is said to mean “torch bearer” or “those who bring light” in Itsate-Creek dialect (part of the Muskogean language family, whose members also included the Tunica, Natchez, and Choctaw). Reportedly, these groups and more are descendants of the prestigious Ancient Mississippians.

We noticed an onsite display entitled “Engineers of the Mississippian Period” where several important facts were revealed about Mississippian People that anchors them to this area, such as: (a) they lived across the Midwest to Southeastern region of North America; (b) they built large earthworks, engineered extensive canal systems, and created impressive means for transit, shelter and agriculture; (c) developed massive networking systems to facilitate social, political, and trade activities; and much more.

Many historical records corroborate the adventures of William Augustus Bowles, a charismatic loyalist who aspired to establish an independent Muskogee Nation on ancestral Creek lands by interrupting trade operations and treaty agreements with Europeans along the Wakulla River. His Creek wife, Merry Perryman, was the daughter of Miccosukee Chief Kinache, and their marriage granted leadership status to him which influenced many Creek leaders to follow.

Another noteworthy contribution to this area’s legacy was made by Miccosukee Chief Tom Perryman (or Kinhage or Kinache) and two brothers named William and John (Jack) Kennaird, who were Lower Creek Chiefs or headmen of the Miccosukees. They became wealthy growing corn and raising cattle along the Wakulla River. Researchers reported that these three names are excluded from the first land surveys done in this area. Could it be that their Indigenous ties to the land precluded such requirement or were they caught up in prevalent land grabbing tactics? Thankfully, truth is ever-present in our being.

Although we feel some of the above events may be listed in the “FMSF”, we’re uncertain about how sites are “classified” and “described”. We do appreciate having access to this information, in order to assist in our over-standing that much more is usually involved than is presented in some multimedia products. And when electing to share our research, we hope you become inspired to learn more about First Nation People and their Descendants.

Peace

And following is a video description of our journey to Wakulla Springs River.