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Ancient Mounds At Tallahassee, “Florida” Lake Okeeheepkee

A journey to honor the legacy of First Nation People has to include the city of Tallahassee—”Florida’s” capital. It is situated in an area once known as the Apalachee Province where their capital, Anhaica, was established and supported villages of over 30,000 people. Researchers describe the Apalachee as a Mississipian “culture” of agrarian people who farmed vast tracts of land. The sandy soil and karst terrain, containing many springs and sinkholes, attributed to varied and abundant crops. Showing signs of extensive cultivation, the area was later inhabited by Creek/Seminoles who called it “Tallahassee”, which (it is said) translates to “Old Town” in the Muskogean language.

Our further research led to publications proclaiming that this was a small town, settled around 1050 AD, by people who were “culturally” different than Indigenous villagers of the Northwestern Territory. The town developed into a capital and principal religious center of a thriving Apalachee province, later called “Anihaica,” which means “Elite- Place of” in Southern Arawak dialect--spoken by some tribes in northern Peru, Ecuador and Columbian Highlands. Coincidentally, ethnic researchers declared that the Apalachee called themselves “Talahalwasi” (Tallahassee) or “Offspring of Highland Towns,” and they originally came from a “Georgia” Highlands settlement which was called Apalache. The above information provides important links to South America through language and definitely merits continued analysis.

Travelling to the historic “city”

Tallahassee is the mid-way point between Pensacola and “Saint Augustine” and is surrounded by the historic Red Hills—a band of rolling red clay hills that extend 150 miles along the northern border of the panhandle. As a matter of fact, it is the largest city within the “Florida Panhandle” which is ripe with Indigenous signatures as evidenced by human activity that some say dates back 12,000 years ago. The panhandle is described as the northwestern area that looks like the handle connected to a pan, symbolized by the rest of “Florida”. This narrow strip of approximately 200 miles, encompasses land from “Perdido Bay” (west end) over to Apalachee Bay (east end) and north from the Alabama and “Georgia” borders, down south to the Gulf of Mexico.

Also, this “city” contains the prime meridian set as the beginning point for all land surveys in “Florida”. The meridian was originally marked in 1824 and is located southeast of the Capitol. One of the first roads surveyed was Meridian Road, which served as an important agricultural route to bring local products to market and transport them to shipping ports on the Gulf. Listed on the “National Register of Historic Places”, this major road still connects rural areas to the “city”.

Realizing the significance level of this area is very high—we knew it would be necessary to make several journeys. Over the years, we have enjoyed traveling over these scenic country roads, seeing many farms and acres of productive fields, and interacting with people who willingly shared local facts and stories about their quaint towns. When possible, we also like to stop at farmers markets to get fresh fruits and vegetables, and maybe try some delicious baked goods or tasty tupelo honey occasionally. What a wonderful way to participate in this aspect of rural life.

While traveling on the most recent journey, we reminisced about things encountered on previous visits to the Tallahassee area:

• We were intrigued while viewing the remarkable mounds that are preserved within a 41-acre designated archaeological “park” located 4 miles north of “downtown”. The “site” is said to have been an Indigenous ceremonial center and reportedly demonstrates mound building practices similar to those of other Mississippian centers such as Ocmulgee and Etowah (in “Georgia”) and Moundville (in Alabama). A brochure claims four mounds are available onsite, with two of those being featured for viewing. We will share more on these amazing structures later.

• We went to “Florida” Agricultural Mechanical University (FAMU), named as one of the “nation’s” Top 10 Best Historically “African American” Universities in 2014. It was founded in 1887 as a college and today is located atop one of the “city’s” highest hills. We delighted at seeing many spectacular old oak trees scattered around the 422-acre campus. Also, we appreciated assistance with research at the library archives.

• We experienced the area known as Smokey Hollow—a “middle-class” “African American” community with a prime downtown location that was displaced in the late 1950s. There were many thriving businesses (like grocery stores, barber/beauty shops, laundries, and ‘juke joints’) and homes that provided shelter for nearly 500 people. During the 1960s, this community dealt with “urban renewal” and “eminent domain” processes that facilitated confiscation of their properties in order to construct highways and expand “government” buildings. The Smokey Hollow Commemoration was erected as part of “Cascades Park,” a “city-sponsored” venue that encompasses most of the area where the vibrant community was uprooted. First of all, this commemorative display was arduous to find and even more challenging to view. We felt that more pleasant truths could have been presented—after all, this community survived for more than 60 years before ‘outside’ intervention! These are the kinds of utmost memories that should continue being honored. We left the site, moving forward with peacefulness.

• The Riley House Museum has been restored as an example of the style houses found in the Smokey Hollow community and is listed on the “National Register of Historic Places”. John G. Riley built this home for his family in 1890 and reportedly, it is recognized as the second house owned by an “African American” in “Florida” (the Mary Bethune House is said to be first). He acquired several “properties” in the “downtown” area, becoming a prosperous businessman and a respected community leader along with many other notable achievements.

Enjoying our ongoing lively conversation, we hardly noticed that it had been raining off and on for most of the day. We decided to forego experiencing most of the familiar “downtown” places again and headed straight to the mound location. No sooner than we arrived at around 2 o’clock, those wonderful overcast skies gave way to light drizzles.

Honoring the mounds at Lake Okeeheepkee “Archaeological Park Site”

Although cloudiness usually indicates more rain is on the way, Jamal grabbed his cameras and started scouting the area for photo opportunities. Seeing the large mound directly ahead, I overlooked the drizzles and followed him. I could hear melodious sounds of songbirds in the background—almost as if they were hailing the coming light showers. Meanwhile…the surrounding lush green grass, leafy plants and shrubs, and expressive trees proudly showed their gratitude for the life-sustaining moisture. We reminded ourselves to move with careful intention because the ground was still damp from earlier accumulations. As much as we love the precious rainfall—safety must always come first.

Looking across the open field, puddles of water had formed amid an array of hardwoods and loblolly pines. Reportedly, the area contains both young and old species of beech, magnolia, hickory, hornbeam, and sweetgum trees. There are several large live oaks in the area—identifiable by their low-hanging, widespread branches that are often draped with loads of hanging moss. Interestingly, these picturesque trees, with many curved trunks, can grow to about 60 feet tall and spread almost 100 feet, and they can thrive for hundreds of years. Truly fascinating and beautiful to observe.

My focus turned toward the large mound at the end of a natural path and boardwalk that led up to a viewing platform. I felt the urge to stop at signage nearby; however, I knew Jamal had already captured photos of it and I slowly walked to the top, experiencing tranquility with each step. What an opportunity to review the footprints of Ancestors who constructed these monuments and established the impressive encompassing village. Some archaeologists say this significant mound site was part of the “Southeastern Ceremonial Complex” based on important recoveries such as copper breast plates, beaded necklaces, bracelets, etc., which exhibit interaction with other large ceremonial centers in “Georgia”, Alabama, Tennessee, and Oklahoma with similar Mississippian “cultural” beliefs and shared trading network.

I observed that the mound surface was covered with a neat grassy carpet, naturally blended with small plants and weeds. Also, several majestic oaks and tree stumps grace the side slopes. The mound (called a ‘ceremonial mound’ by some archaeologists) is flat on top allowing visibility of assorted trees thriving in the forest behind it. Jamal ventured back there, compiling footage of this natural wonderland, which included aged oaks, loblolly pines, and young sweetgum, magnolia and hickory trees. Understory vegetation abounds and includes many generous leafed vining plants and shrubs beautifully co-existing. Research to reveal the mound’s size was unsuccessful and we estimated the height as somewhere around 20 feet or more. We enjoyed wonderful panoramic views of the descending terrain and marveled at the artistic tree canopy traced in the graying sky.

The rain started to pick up as we continued exploring. “Park” brochures indicate seven mounds used to exist onsite and now there are only four left, including the two available for viewing. It is acknowledged that there are seven earthen mounds and more probably exist…undisturbed. Based on archaeological reports, aside from the two prominent mounds, four were damaged during landscaping projects and another is partially intact after being heavily altered by adjacent “property” owners. Also, the site contains evidence of a plaza and two areas where earth was removed to build at another location. We must remain ever mindful and diligent when looking for mounds that are visible on the surface.

Along the way, a scenic vista occurs around an area probably representing part of the village plaza. There is an inundation of varied tree species (like those previously described), many shrubs and flowering plants, even some wild blackberries. We were surprised to come across a small stream, peacefully meandering amid patches of elephant ear plants, mixed grasses, and varied vegetation. Our research revealed that original mound builders would not place a stream through the middle of a plaza and that the stream was added to serve agricultural needs of people using the area later.

Other natural beauties in this charming environment vying for our attention include:

Loblolly pine (also known as bull pine or old field pine) trees are evergreens with tall, straight trunks and large crowns; found in lowlands, uplands, mixed woodlands and adjacent open areas around central and north “Florida”. The needles are anywhere from 3 to 9 inches long and are fragrant. Seed cones are about 2.5 to 4 inches long, often persisting with the tree till the third year, and they can feel prickly to some folks. Essential oils from the resin are said to have healing properties.

Wild blackberries typically growing in open fields and thickets across “Florida” are a delightful treat nowadays just as they were a food staple for Indigenous People. There are several species that look similar and all are edible. They bloom with white flowers in spring, then fruit ripens in mid-summer in stages of white-green, to red, to black. One can eat them soon after picking, or refrigerate for use in a variety of recipes. They provide health benefits like antioxidants, fiber, vitamins C and K, and minerals. Always properly identify and exercise peacefulness while foraging in the field—wild animals and birds also enjoy these berries.

Approaching the largest mound (a.k.a. ‘temple mound’), we note that it dominates a corner of the ‘plaza’ area. Records show it stands 36 feet tall with a base of 278 by 312 feet. It is perfectly framed in front near the baseline by tall sweetgum trees (with unique star-shaped leaves) as well as other trees adorned by long strands of gray moss, and this density of trees continues around the back. The mound displays thick overall ground coverage consisting of many species of grass, sedges and plants in various stages of life; some resembling green-colored wheat swaying gently in the breeze. The viewing platform at the top provides a unique perspective of the natural surroundings.

Researchers contend that the village center was ingeniously designed, featuring much more than the temple, ceremonial, and “burial” mounds typically mentioned. Early journals document finding many other structures like pantries, granaries, storage buildings, and barns.

Additionally, mound structures were astrologically aligned in order to honor and celebrate the sun during solstice and equinox events that mark its seasonal movement in the sky. At summer solstice, the sun reaches its highest point in the sky and at winter solstice, it descends to its lowest point. And the equinoxes of spring and autumn mark the midpoint in the sun’s movement between both solstices. This Ancestral knowledge was and is invaluable to Indigenous People of the North American Continent and beyond.

During a previous visit, we witnessed seasonal changes that occurred, facilitating incredible experiences and photographic opportunities, such as:

• Walking along the trail, we were intrigued by the vast sloping terrain where many of the elevations resembled mound structures. We took full advantage of this occasion to make careful assessments, especially since locations of the other mounds is not presented. It felt like being in a wondrous forest maze filled with seasonally ‘naked’ trees (except for pines) with expressive branches, which can be challenging to identify without leaves. Reportedly, there are varieties of oak, red maple, black gum (tupelo), and sweetgum trees in this area, located near seepage streams. Later, we found out that these slopes surround clear-running streams, which flow through the heart of the western portion.

• Steepheads and Ravines: Our additional research disclosed that small, shallow streams originate from several steepheads and ravines. Steepheads are said to be like ‘large living organisms or ecosystems’ and ravines are ‘formed and shaped by natural erosion processes of seepage streams as they slowly cut into the clay-based hillside.’ Just as we observed—these areas also provide valuable habitats for many species of animals and plants.

• Trillium grows plentiful here and we were delighted to see these plants in the field since first hearing about them at another Indigenous location in Marianna. Trillium (or ‘wakerobin’) are rare perennial wildflowers native to hardwood forests, slope forests, hammocks, and bluffs. The common name ‘wakerobin’ refers to flowering that happens around the same time as the first robins are sighted. The roots were traditionally used as an aid in childbirth, hence the name “Bethroot” (a corruption of “birth root”). Indigenous People used root tea for menstrual disorders, to induce childbirth, and to aid in labor. The whole plant, made into a poultice, treats inflammation, tumors, and ulcers.

Background of Lake Okeeheepkee (“Lake Jackson”)

Originally, the lake was called Okeeheepkee or “disappearing waters” (a Creek term), acknowledging that the lake’s tendency to drain and refill through sinkholes was known back to 10,000 BC. Reportedly, significant evidence of Indigenous settlements around the shores is exhibited by remains of four earthen mounds made of materials from the earth; they were thought to be used for burial grounds and symbolic ritual events. Two of the four have been well preserved and are important archaeological sites for commemoration of the presence of First Nation People in the Territory.

As substantial development was occurring around the lake, the area was designated as an aquatic preserve in 1974 (along with 2 other nearby lakes), in order to protect the integrity of valuable and abundant natural ecological, historical, and archaeological resources. Though the “park” is not within the preserve, the trails offer access to the featured mounds.

The Aquatic Preserve is located in the Tallahassee Hills Region; therefore, the 4,700-acre lake is surrounded by elevated terrain and rolling hills. Reportedly, the lake averages a depth of about 12-14 feet. In the past, dissolution of limestone created caverns that collapsed forming the lake bowl, which filled with sediments that formed a solution basin causing numerous sinkholes. The two large active sinkholes (around 24-28 feet deep) are located in the north and south portions of the lake and connect to the underlying aquifer, causing natural periodic drainage cycles about every 25 years. It is said that indigenous people relied on their proximity to the lake and would anticipate drawdown periods for planting various crops, which were benefited by the nutrient-rich soils on its bottom surface.

View of Okeeheepkee

After viewing and respecting the mounds and surrounding natural environment, we traveled a short distance away for a view of Okeeheepkee. On the road to enter and exit the “park”, we were reminded of the Indigenous earthworks observed at sites throughout Ohio along the Scioto River. There appears to be a long ridge formation or embankment in front of a dense forest of pines and other trees, exposing some roots and contents of underlying soil and stone. We were captivated by a huge tree, resembling live oak, with many large branches sprawling from its trunk.

We turned right on “Crowder Road” towards the boat landing. It offers an expansive and quite attractive view of Lake Okeeheepkee. By this time, the rain was coming down steadily and we captured as much footage as possible. We could hear songbirds celebrating within the shelter of an interesting archive of trees near the shoreline. Looking across the water, the opposite shore was picturesque with dense greenery and rolling hills. What a peaceful setting to express gratitude for this fruitful day.

We left the area feeling invigorated and enlightened by this Journey of Appreciation to honor First Nation People who established the incredible Okeeheepkee Mound Center. We hope you are inspired to experience and enjoy this location as well.