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Falling Waters “Park” at "Chipley, Florida"

During a recent journey across northwest “Florida”, we experienced an Indigenous Honoring Site that also features a 73-foot waterfall, sinkholes, and terrestrial caverns. We wanted to learn more about the first inhabitants who were likely attracted by the natural beauty and abundant resources surrounding the region now called “Falling Waters Park”, located just 3 miles south of the city of “Chipley” and about 120 miles northeast of Pensacola (yet another “city” in The Territory named for its Indigenous beginnings).

Reportedly, Indigenous People lived in the area once referred to as Falling Waters Hill, which was part of a cluster of hills, some with elevations taller than 300 feet. According to archaeological surveys, Falling Waters Hill is listed as a cultural asset from the so-called Weedon Island period [450 – 1000 AD] and local planning documents set protocols specific to its preservation. These plans include the surrounding landscapes of upland pine forests, steep ravines and sloped seepages, especially the network of sinkholes and caverns where some records suggest that early inhabitants used them as “hideaway shelters.” Also, it was said that this landmark ‘hill’ could be seen from long distances all around.

Additionally, we found an interesting publication that claimed old-timers referred to the hills near the “park’s” present entrance as “mounds” and referred to the “park” site as a former “Indian” village. The book also mentions a 1778 area map shows existence of the Indigenous village of “Pokanaweethly” and has a notation written on it that reads, “the river here runs subterraneous.” Some researchers speculate that this possibly references the disappearing waterfall currently seen at “Falling Waters Park”.

Furthermore, past and present-day recoveries around this area consist of Indigenous ceramics, arrowheads, and other historic items. As a matter of fact, a 2007 newspaper article reported that an archaeological survey team found hundreds of artifacts at Falling Waters “Park” dating from 1,000 to 1,500 years ago. The article also noted that judging from the number of crafted items found around the “park” campsites, Indigenous People experienced a culturally abundant existence here.

All of the above findings present significant confirmation of Indigenous habitation at this location. We honor their legacy by engaging on this Journey of Appreciation and we fully anticipate an awakening experience. Also, we were curious about whether “Florida” has any naturally occurring waterfalls and this 173-acre “park” (said to be 324 feet above sea level at its highest point) has earned distinction of having “Florida’s” tallest waterfall. We looked forward to experiencing this.

After traveling a short distance through the small town of “Chipley” to get to the “park”, we arrived at around 10:00am prepared for an enjoyable outing under overcast skies and warm weather that felt rather comfortable. Taking deep breaths and slowly looking around, there was a sense of peacefulness abounding in this natural environment and our eyes delightfully embraced the scenic beauty. Obviously, the Ancestors knew how to select living spaces that provide valuable water, food, shelter, and other resources. They respected nature and gained significant knowledge of the healing benefits of various trees and plants. For instance—we saw yaupon holly growing here and researchers found that this is the only plant native to North America that contains caffeine and it has an active ingredient (‘theobromine’) used in medicine to treat heart ailments and high blood pressure. Also, a tea (made using leaves) is as high in antioxidants as blueberries.

We continued on a walkway canvassed by rows of magnificent pine trees. As a matter of fact, these towering pines are everywhere, forming an intricate forest backdrop. We found out later that there are 175 species of pines worldwide and The Territory has seven native species identified as loblolly, slash, longleaf, shortleaf, pond, sand, and spruce. In addition to individual differences in species, pines are evergreens so they keep their leaves and conduct photosynthesis year-round; plus, they are valued for enhancing the ecosystem and economy. While variations in size and shape of the pine needles and pine cones help some people identify the exact species, we are satisfied just being able to recognize their bark patterns and occasional resin seepage. Our noses can usually detect the piney aroma too!

The surrounding community definitely is a haven for nature lovers. Intermingling within the pine forest (and recorded by other site visitors) are trees like southern magnolia, American beech, sweet gum, and water oak--species that we are learning to identify for ourselves. A grassy area located nearby contains family gathering venues and information kiosks detailing activities like birdwatching and trail hiking. There is also a walk-through butterfly garden, filled with plants designed to attract various species of butterflies as pictured on a display panel. Although butterflies were absent from this garden spot, we did notice a few beauties busily exploring the vast foliage of other areas. Plus, the colorful wildflowers—blooming amid a variety of greenery and odd-sized rocks—aptly complemented our onsite visual pleasure. Ahh, I love flowers…they elicit joyful smiles.

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Walking along, we observed that the trail branched off, leading down to the waterfall or up to an observation deck; or runs around to sinkholes within a hardwood hammock and through a pine forest with wiregrass terrain; then on towards other venues in the “park”. We could hear water falling in the distance and headed in that direction first--especially since it had been said that the amount of rainfall directly affects the intensity of water flow. Consequently, some folks reported seeing varying degrees of flow or no flow at all. We felt confident (based on sound) that we would witness the famed waterfall today as it spills over the edge of a cliff and winds up in the mouth of a 100-foot deep by 20-foot wide circular sinkhole.

We carefully went down the stairs for an intricate perspective of the waterfall. Jamal set cameras in motion to capture some incredible panoramic views from the platform below. I remained on the steps intrigued by the abundance and variety of ferns, mosses, plants and trees—all thriving together—around this earthen hillside, covering limestone rock formations and the sinkhole wall. Life is visible everywhere involved in an amazing symbiotic relationship consistent with natural environments that receive ample rain water, nutrient-rich moisture from the air, and energizing sunlight. Even exposed root systems managed to provide steady support for the above ground trees and contribute to an incredible overhead canopy as many birds chirped their appreciation as well. Simply amazing!

Here are some of the interesting plants I observed at the waterfall, along with research commentary:

Epiphytes or Air Plants have no attachment to the ground, capturing water and nutrients from sources other than soil. Found on tree trunks and branches, they depend on host plants merely for physical support and are not parasitic. Interestingly, tree epiphytes are usually tropical plants like bromeliads and may include cacti, orchids, lichens, moss, and ferns. Sources report that the adaptations of epiphytic plants facilitate their ability to flourish in difficult areas in order to access needed nutrients, while benefiting the surrounding ecosystems. For example, resurrection ferns can turn from dried brown to vibrant green within one day after losing up to 97 percent of their water content, which makes them a fascinating project for school children to learn about air plants. And, reportedly, they can live in this dried state for hundreds of years and then spring back to life after rain or increased humidity.

--I have often wondered about those sturdy giant philodendrons that wrap themselves around tall tree trunks. Research reveals that most philodendrons are climbers and often transform themselves into epiphytes (called secondary hemi-epiphytes) that grow towards tree trunks using modified roots to seek light. Eventually the stem dies at the base, severing connection to the soil. Only a small stem at the top of plant is retained and may wander after arriving at the treetop. If that spot is too shady, it moves to a better location by producing more stem, growing in front of the plant while dying off behind. And if the spot is too dry, it can drop new roots to the ground. Also, unlike most epiphytes, many philodendrons do not die when they fall to the ground —they simply begin their climb upward all over again. What?? Amazing…and now we know. Also, these plants have other properties that I’ll share later on, further along our many journeys.

Lichens are epiphytic organisms (living on the surface of plants) consisting of a fungus and an alga —the fungus gets water and minerals from air and its host, giving structure and protection to the alga, which provides carbohydrates and vitamins needed by the fungus for growth. We notice lichens growing on trees because those white, gray or reddish spots on the bark really stand out. It is said that an inundation of lichens on trees means stressful conditions exist causing their branches to defoliate or lose leaves, which allows more sunlight and escalates growth of lichens.

Mosses have existed millions of years and 60 different species are said to be found in fossils. Reportedly, (1) there are about 14,500 recorded species in the world; (2) though usually less than an inch in height, the tallest species found can reach 20 inches; (3) the sponge-like mats that we see blanketing surfaces take thousands of individual mosses which form to increase absorption and water retention; and (4) this process aids ecosystems to stabilize the ground and remove carbon dioxide from the air. Additionally, mosses provide a habitat and food source for many insects. And…it is said that many plants with moss in their names (i.e., oak moss and beard moss) are not really mosses—they are lichens.

Ferns and Lycophytes (allies of ferns) are vascular plants without wood, seeds or flowers. They are ancient plants that dominated many forests of the world. Reportedly, there are 12,000+ fern species and about 1,200 lycophyte species. Both reproduce via spores, depend on wind for pollination, have fronds (leaves) that differ between the two species, and are a major organ with leaf blades and a stalk that spans from its base to tip, facilitating photosynthesis, reproduction, and other values. Several sources have identified types of ferns growing in the area as maidenhair, bracken, cinnamon, royal, and spleenwort…just to name a few. Also, I am especially attracted to the large green, leafy ferns, placed in hanging baskets, and seen wonderfully adorning porches of some homes and various outdoor living spaces. They are so beautiful wherever they appear.

Oakleaf hydrangeas adorn the landscape with broad green leaves that are similar in shape to oak tree leaves. These native shrubs thrive in shady areas as understory to larger trees, on forested hillsides, and along streams. Today, they caught our attention because of the huge cone-shaped clusters of gorgeous white flowers that are known to appear each summer. They last for several months, then turn light pink or purple and I imagine they’re just as lovely in those colors. We were drawn to the lovely white flowers and their large green leaves because they added scenic beauty down here and were very photogenic.

Moving forward down to the platform (although I was a bit hesitant to peer over the edge), it turned into a wonderful experience, offering a great perspective of the water falling from the cliff high above and landing inside the opening below. I felt a refreshing coolness in the air and noted a slight damp marshy smell while embracing this unique opportunity to stare down the mouth of a deep sinkhole and witnessing the lively union of water, soil, rocks, plants, trees, and so forth, that harmoniously share this habitat. Along with green algae growing on the wall behind the waterfall, we spotted a very interesting cave opening as well as many dents and holes in the surrounding limestone surfaces. Reportedly, this particular sinkhole facilitates the cascading water on its journey through disappearing underground caverns and eventually joins other streams traveling to the “Floridan” aquifer—Fascinating to ponder!

Afterwards, we climbed higher above the sink for some splendid overhead views of the waterfall and surrounding sloped terrain, visible through many tall hardwood trees. We continued to an area that is called ‘Sinkhole Trail.’ Interestingly, we had already been traversing next to many different sized “openings” in the ground. One sinkhole was unique because there was an obvious sound of flowing water nearby, yet the small amount of water we observed deeper inside that sinkhole was not capable of emitting what was heard. We followed the sound to find the source which appeared to lead back to the larger flowing water. Additionally, we noted that areas around the sinkholes were mostly covered with beautiful green ferns, pine needles, and other vegetation, as well as exposed roots of the trees growing on top. What an experience seeing so many caverns and sinks.

Research presented in survey documents was used for some of the details cited below and to add clarity to related observations we made at this location:

Falling Waters Sink was created when underlying limestone dissolved and collapsed to form a large solution pipe (or tunnel) open to the ground surface. Reportedly, a series of streams converge to a single water course that cascades over a waterfall into the deep sink, which receives most surface water from Falling Waters Hill. The water descends through these seepage streams in the “park” and then disappears into the aquifer.

Terrestrial Caves were surveyed underneath the boardwalk leading to the viewing platform near the waterfall. Reportedly, two separate air-filled cave systems penetrate the limestone bedrock. The survey documents provide the following information:

The northerly cave system entrance opens into the sink midway from the bottom and contains an 80-foot high dome cavern at its extremity a short distance in. As previously stated, we noticed a small opening in the wall behind the waterfall; however, it was too dark to make observations further inside the cave.

The other system connects multiple smaller sinkhole entrances as it features zigzag turns, domes, pits, large rocks, loop passages, and sharp drops along its length. We observed many sinkholes, yet could not readily identify this cave system among the sinkhole entrances.

No linkages between these two cave systems have been discovered by researchers; though the southerly cave is frequently occupied by eastern pipistrelle bats and cave crickets. And some folks report observing a small colony of southeastern bats; however, the time of day we visited did not allow us to see any bats.

Sinkholes are said to be common in this region (and all over “Florida”) resulting from the karst topography found underneath the soil. ‘Karst’ is described as an area of irregular limestone in which erosion has produced fissures, sinkholes, underground streams, and caverns. Therefore, when water passes through the limestone subsurface over thousands of years, the rock erodes forming caves; and in time, as these caves continue to enlarge, they become unstable and collapse, creating deep holes known as ‘sinkholes.’

--Interestingly, sinkholes have important effects on both surface and ground water. Lakes commonly occupy depressions created by sinkhole collapse and streams lose their entire flow at low-flow stages to the aquifer through holes in the streambed. And where unplugged, sinkholes form a direct connection from land surfaces to the aquifer, allowing surface runoff to move directly and quickly. We are still learning more about sinkholes and aquifers.

Moving forward to Wiregrass Trail, we paused to admire a juvenile longleaf pine that was making an impressive appearance amid other tall trees and greenery. The circular shape formed by its long green needles created a beautiful eye-catching view. It is said that longleaf pine seedlings do experience a ‘grass phase’ that can last 5 to 7 years as they develop their root systems to build and store up energy supplies; then the trees gain height quickly using these underground reserves to eventually reach 80 to 100 feet tall. We had no idea that longleaf pines started life looking this gorgeous and we definitely appreciate the memorable photo op.

Also, we learned that ‘wiregrass’ is one of the most common grasses in southern pine flatwoods and upland sandhills; it grows in dense, spreading tufts or clumps, reaching to heights up to 3 feet; it usually regenerates quickly after regular summer burnings that stimulate flowering and seed production; it is a food source for gopher tortoises, quail, and other animals; and it provides shelter for birds, reptiles, and small mammals. These are important characteristics of wiregrass plants, which sometimes are referred to as “pineland three-awn” based on its flower structure and growth in southeastern regions from Mississippi to The Land of Flowers. Even though many other types of grasses exist, we feel confident in identifying wiregrass plants (seen as just ‘weeds’ previously) during our travels enjoying natural environments.

As we strolled towards the “park” exit, the day’s fruitful events were acknowledged with much gratitude. As a side note—we observed that the onsite green historic marker curiously (though not surprising) contains only a brief sentence to reflect that Indigenous People lived in the area. Thus, we feel that our research ultimately adds balance to the quest for truth about indigenous heritage across America. We are always excited about learning and sharing these findings with you.

Additionally, our research is a reminder that there is still much to be disclosed about existence of First Nation People here in “Florida”, as well as those coming from other places including Alabama, “Georgia”, Mississippi, and the Caribbean.

According to historical doctrine related to the ‘voyages of exploration,’ European invaders were confronted by three separate indigenous Arawak-speaking groups (Ciboney (Guanahatabey), Taino, and Caribe). Some survey documents declare that Indigenous people of the Greater Antilles were called “Ciboney” which is an Arawak word (spelled ‘Siboney’ also). These people settled in isolated western regions around so-called ‘Hispaniola’ and Cuba. And, reportedly, certain features of the Ciboney culture point to “Florida”.

Researchers have also claimed that “many Cuban Ciboney appear to have lived in caves at least part of the time.” And, as we mentioned earlier, it has been reported that Indigenous people strategically used the cavern systems formed by sinkholes at Falling Waters. Though this was interesting to read, the information must be corroborated.

In conclusion, we realize there are a myriad of varying theories and speculation surrounding the subject of Indigenous heritage throughout “Florida” and the Americas. This makes for quite challenging research. We have found much peacefulness in honoring the legacy of Indigenous People whose valuable signatures are ever-present across many lands and seas.

Our Journey of Appreciation to Falling Waters was enlightening and we are grateful for this sharing opportunity. You and your family are cordially invited to visit the site to create memories of your own.